Его пекли к особым датам, а рецепты скрывали от соседей – в этом году у тульского пряника юбилей. С первого письменного упоминания об этом лакомстве прошло 335 лет.
Пряники сегодня пекут во многих городах России, но только в Туле они получаются особенно вкусными. Кстати, тульскими имеют право называться только пряники, испеченные в Туле.
«Когда в медовый хлеб начали добавлять пряности, отсюда и получилось слово пряник. Мы сейчас с вами будем делать пряник именно тем способом, как и делали 300 лет назад», — рассказала генеральный директор фабрики «Медовые традиции» Ольга Петрова.
Пряничные формы вырезают из березы. Кстати, до революции, помимо профессиональных резчиков, этим занимались и тульские оружейники, которые таким способом подрабатывали. Тексты и рисунки должны быть с определенным наклоном и определенной глубины. Если рисунок расположить близко к краю, то при выпечке начинка будет вытекать из пряника.
Рецепт тульского пряника мастера не скрывают — мука, сахар, мед, яйца, сливочное масло, сода. Впрочем, не все так просто. До революции в Туле каждый фабрикант имел свой секрет и тщательно его хранил. Были целые пряничные династии.
«Щукины, Козловы, Гречихины, Белолипецкий, Чулковы были на слуху у многих горожан. 100 наименований одного только тульского пряника здесь делали. Ананасный, шоколадный, фисташковый, дынный, арбузный, «дамские пальчики» — очень много витиеватых и интригующих названий пряничного продукта выпускали здесь», — сообщила директор музея «Тульский пряник» Анна Трачук.
Существовало даже что-то вроде промышленного шпионажа. Однажды подмастерье знаменитого пряничника Гречихина, пока тот был на службе в церкви, взвесил его разновесы, в качестве которых использовались обычные камни, и таким образом узнал точные пропорции ингредиентов пряника сорта «Экстра». В советское время этот Степан Савостьянов — бывший подмастерье — стал директором одной из тульских фабрик по выпечке пряников. Так был возрожден старинный рецепт. Но уже в новых, социалистических формах.
«Цитаты вождя революции Ленина на прянике «Значение Тулы для республики огромно». Отражали даже символику нашего государства — вот перед нам герб Союза нерушимых республик свободных», — добавила директор музея «Тульский пряник» Анна Трачук.
Именно пряники с картинкой стали фирменным стилем тульских мастеров. Иногда встречались и ошибки, вот, например, пряник «Ареховый». Сегодня могут изготовить на заказ форму любого размера и с любым текстом.
После того как пряники испеклись — последний штрих — густой слой сахарной глазури. Затем их оставляют на сутки. Как говорят пекари, пряник должен «переночевать», а «тесто с начинкой должно пожениться».
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